RigWise HQ

How to Measure Your Head for a Motorcycle Helmet

Five minutes with a tape measure beats three returns to the retailer.

The method

  1. Get a flexible tape measure, cloth or plastic, not a metal construction tape. A string or cable works too (mark it, then measure the string against a ruler).
  2. Position it about one inch (2.5 cm) above your eyebrows, right where a helmet's brow line will sit.
  3. Wrap level around the widest part of the back of your head, over the occipital bump, not up near the crown. You're after the largest circumference, which is roughly forehead-to-back-of-skull.
  4. Snug, not tight. The tape should lie flat without compressing your skin or your hair more than a helmet would.
  5. Take three measurements and keep the largest. Tape position drifts; the largest reading is the honest one.
  6. Write down centimeters AND inches. Brand charts use cm; US retailers often list inches. 58 cm ≈ 22.8 in.

What your measurement means

Most major brands use a chart close to this one. Treat it as a starting point: individual models vary by about half a size, and a few model lines run their own shifted charts.

SizeHead (cm)Head (in)
XS53–5420.9–21.3
S55–5621.7–22.0
M57–5822.4–22.8
L59–6023.2–23.6
XL61–6224.0–24.4
XXL63–6424.8–25.2

A worked example

Say your three readings come out 58.2, 58.6, and 58.4 cm. Keep the largest: 58.6 cm (about 23.1 in). On the typical chart that puts you at the top of Medium and close to Large. The right move is to try the Medium first. A new liner compresses 10–15% in the first 15–20 hours of wear, so a Medium that feels firmly snug today usually settles into the correct fit. A Large that feels comfortable in the store has nowhere to go but loose. If the Medium gives you a forehead hot spot within 20 minutes, that is not tightness, it is shape, and the Large in the same model will not fix it. Try a different model instead.

Between sizes? Start smaller

Charts have gaps, and real heads land in them. If your measurement falls between two sizes, order or try the smaller one first. A slightly snug helmet breaks in toward your head; a slightly loose helmet only gets looser, and a helmet that can shift on your head is a safety problem, not a comfort quirk. Many brands also sell thicker or thinner cheek pads and crown liners, so a shell in the smaller size can often be fine-tuned by half a size either way.

Size is only half of it: head shape

Two heads can measure the same circumference and need completely different helmets. Shells come in three broad shapes: round oval (head nearly as wide as it is long), intermediate oval (slightly longer than wide, the most common shape), and long oval (noticeably longer front to back). The measurement gets you to a size; the shape decides whether that size is wearable. Pressure concentrated on your forehead usually means the helmet is too round for you. Pressure at the temples points the other way. If every size in a model hurts in the same spot, the model's shape is wrong for you, and no size in that model will fit.

Mistakes that get people the wrong size

Measuring a kid, or someone else

The method is identical for a second person, and easier: you can see the tape position all the way around, so keep it level and just above the eyebrows while they hold still. For kids, measure the same way and use the youth charts, not the bottom of the adult chart. Children's heads grow fast, so recheck the fit every season; a youth helmet that passed the shake test in spring may fail it by fall.

Got your number?

Plug it into the helmet size finder, then run through the fit checklist when the helmet arrives.